The last three paints listed above certainly satisfy that need. It’s a simple method: zenithal prime a mini, apply a wash for contrast, and you’re done. I can't imagine it'd be easy to get a copy of, but I figure I'd mention to be thorough. After priming the model (Son on Onimos, Rackham) i do start painting the base colours up to the model, already thinking myself into the light situation (zenithal) and bring the areas affected by light up to the model with a brighter tone. Close. Do one arm and check it over before moving onto the next, for example, rather than trying to cover both arms and legs in the same colour before checking it. If you are just using contrast paints, remember you won’t be filling that gap with a later wash! And the end result: I'd also suggest taking some pictures of the figure after the zenithal priming to use as a reference once you start painting just in case you put the paint on too thick and need a reminder of where the light and shadows are in that specific area. But although wash-over-glaze is a perfectly valid technique, I wanted to see what I could do with just the Sundrop approach: wash-over-zenithal. Normally with paints we paint from the lowest parts of the model up to the highest as its a little easier in terms of brushwork and clean up. You can wait for it to dry and apply a second coat. At the end of that post, I looked forward to painting the dragon Volfyirion and the miniatures in Icaion, both from Tabula Games. Even zenithal priming doesn't really work with contrast. Can you use a combination of contrast paints and regular acrylics on … You’ll apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect from the shadows to the upper most areas. Zenithal Priming – I love zenithal priming, and it’s more effective with Contrast than any other paint type! Well, with all due respect to the designers at Tabula Games, the mini designers at Awaken Realms are more ambitious. a really nice trick can be to use a contrast paint more than once for depth, combining it with dry brushing or edge highlighting with the primer colour first to exaggerate the depth of colour from the recesses to the edges. Contrast paints use a range of different pigments in a different medium that are designed to separate out, with the darker pigment being drawn into the slower drying recesses as the liquid contracts. For the inexperienced, they’re supposed to give the visceral thrill of quickly painting a mini. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Contrast paints are a pain to clean up on your model, so you need pretty tidy brush work to get the most out of them. The plan here was to give me enough initial contrast so that I could then spray a single base color and still get a nice gradient effect. That means, first and foremost, your choice of primer makes a massive difference to the outcome. I then applied a red glaze to a couple more to see effect of washes on top of the glaze. Now, I started painting in the 80s when white primers and vibrant colours and pageantry was the order of the day! You can thin with contrast medium. Let’s be clear – you apply it as if you were applying a normal base coat, in general. Wraithbone – awesome vibrant colours with a warm hint. ... Zenithal Priming is a method of priming where you use three colors instead of just one. If you start with a grey primer (like halfords grey primer, or mechanicus grey), you get a fantastic muted effect that looks a lot closer to the current palette. An initial wash of agrax can add extra depth while keeping that lovely warm tone and crisp highlights. Well, it was worth it just to see how it would fair over straight zenithal priming. The tests I did with the red glaze were in anticipation of techniques I’d use to paint Volfyirion (in a later post I describe why I dropped this approach). I mean, if you’re cash strapped or lazy you can get away with using 2 colors, but 3 gets best results. I tend to fall for this one myself still! And you can compensate slightly by adding other types of contrast, like using complementary colours on adjacent areas. For me, applying paint quickly and neatly enough is fun, and because I see the model come to life without the “this looks terrible stages of base coats and highlights”, it maintains my interest painting the same colour over larger numbers of models. If you don’t know about zenithal priming, I won’t go into it here, but look it up – its a fantastic technique. I highly suggest you start with a white, off white, or light grey base coat. That doesn’t come to us naturally. I wanted to combine Contrast with my normal painting workflow and see how the new paints could be used to improve it. I’ll go over my efforts to paint Volfyirion in another mini-painting post. First, contrast is a translucent paint that is designed to recede from edges and heavily pigment recesses. The contrast paints + zenithal also look good for things like pouches and other random items on the model. I succumbed to peer pressure and tried a few to see how well they worked. On the flip side, the edges aren’t as effectively highlighted, because the darker grey isn’t as high a contrast in tone with the recesses. This is one of the most popular posts on this blog. I’ll go over my efforts to paint Volfyirion in another mini-painting post. A lot of that is often hidden slightly with traditional painting, especially if its slapped on a bit thicker than it should be. Mechanicus Grey/Halfords Grey – muted colours, and the highlights aren’t as crisp, but we’re right in the colour tone for standard painting over black undercoats now. Well, for the contrast paints to flow properly, the primer has to be smooth. What do you think of the New Contrast Paints so Far?To Help Support Jay, Che: 17. zenithal Priming is priming your model with 3 colors instead of just 1. You can use it as a heavy wash over another colour with the translucent nature – but you apply it like a normal paint. Oh, and if you put a few areas of different primer on your contrast lids, then cover it with that contrast paints, you’ll know what it’ll look like. Again, careful planning reduces the clean up. Apply extra edge highlights to increase the colour contrast and make hard edges pop even more! Honestly, though I love contrast … you can really improve your minis with a few extra touches. Something you could probably achieve with the white and black Contrast paints. Perfect if you want to come closer to matching existing forces. 3 comments. The new Citadel contrast range of paints are a pleasure to work with, and are now my “go to” paints when dealing with any rank and file troops, you simply cannot bear an average of 5-10 minutes per figure and will result in many boxes of minis actually … If you run a big brush over an area quickly, you’ll end up with areas of primer visible in recesses that haven’t been touched by the brush. -Start by priming the whole model with light grey (i mix stynylrez grey and white 35/65) -Do a Zenithal from the top and side with pure white. But you don’t have to use Wraithbone. 1. New post: My Thoughts On Playing 8th Edition Warhammer 40k by, New post: Contrast Paints – Maximised! 'Free Your Models - Contrast' paint range -- In stores June 15th, color charts and video pg. I didn’t expect much of an effect of Apothecary White over the gray zenithal. If you use a dark contrast paint, drybrush it with the primer, then go over it with a lighter colour, you can really get some brilliant effects like light green edges over shaded black models, an amazing effect on Drukhari, for example. Depending on the figure, I might want a less intense color; e.g., a mist creature or an undead. Zenithal Priming is a way to paint your miniatures based on how they are traditionally viewed. Plan your contrast paints around the metal going on, and you can often find that you can speed up a lot of your painting as if the metal parts are going to get overpainted carefully, you can slap the other colours on faster around the awkward bits. Third …. The Awaken Realms Kickstater pages offered to paint the minis for you, using a technique they called Sundrop; Aella13 calls this pre-shading and Vince Venturella calls it sketch style. Paints being applied over primer all react a bit different. An initial nuln gloss wash or shining silver drybrush (or both!) save. Do I use a varnish with a satin finish or one with a gloss finish? This means that for the majority of the game, you are looking at the miniatures from above. I applied a tan zenithal to all my remaining Dwarf Brewer minis. Contrast paints as recommended by GW go straight over their wraithbone primer for a slightly warm vibrant shade. To my eye, the mini on the right has the more vibrant color. Superb! I knew I could Sundrop minis fairly quickly, not get bogged down in details, and get the gray off the table. Pingback: Vindication of the Dragon at the Edge of Darkness – The Argothald Journal, Pingback: Contrast Paints and a Metal Dwarf – The Argothald Journal, Pingback: Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium – The Argothald Journal. If you slap dark contrast colours everywhere, you’ll need to repaint any overlaps with paint matching your undercoat, and that’s very time consuming, especially if you’ve gone an extra notch on your model by drybrushing or washing your undercoat first. If you click on the Tainted Grail and Etherfields links, you’ll see how elaborate their minis are. report. Think of Retributor as a metallic Wraithbone, with warm metallic notes shining through. I find breaking the application down to smaller sections helps me get better coverage and deal with any issues before moving on to the next. I went with a black/grey/white zenithal prime using my airbrush. I feel this is okay to do, because I have no soul. Miniature Painting Painting Tutorial Mini Paintings Warhammer 40k Miniatures Model Paint Warhammer Paint Wargaming Figure Painting Funny School Pictures. I have a gaming store opening up near me that's going to run a Konflikt '47 escalation league geared towards helping beginners learn the game and they are running a deal on the starter sets and plastic kits. This post continues a saga I began in an earlier post on the hobby of painting miniature figures. An initial wash of nuln oil can add extra depth while keeping that cooler, tone and the crisp highlights. Has anyone tried zenithal priming with grey seer and wraithbone? Zenithal highlighting is another approach to highlighting a model that gives it a completely different look and feel. I chose this mix because I wanted the red to be translucent enough that it wouldn’t completely override the zenithal effect. Brilliant! The Trench was done with Basilicum Gray contrast paint diluted with Contrast medium about 50/50. Your email address will not be published. Apr 23, 2020 - “Here’s the tutorial for dark skin using Contrast! I’ll decide on a figure-by-figure basis as the games arrive. A product made for n00bs? And that includes your mould lines, stubs from sprue cuts, and everything else. If you apply thin layers over the primer layer the paint that you put over the black primer will appear darker than the paint that you put over the white primer. Priming. I saw the videos and I was intrigued. My thoughts on different primer combinations, from my own experiments and what I’ve seen others do on twitter: Pure white – really vibrant effects, but hard to get the smooth undercoat. Since I wrote that post, a new element entered the picture: I pre-ordered two more games with miniature figures: Tainted … Miniatures painted with glazes over zenithal priming have good contrast within each area, but can lack contrast between each of the areas. Painting 201: Zenithal Priming, or how to shade & highlight like a BOSS. They each have a main goal in mind, I think, and are designed to be used out of the pot for that. hide. But shake the pots up well or you get some bloody odd results. I took a class with him at Gen Con. In that post, I described how I managed to paint the minis in the game Mystheato a satisfactory level. Understand your paints before you apply them. Your email address will not be published. The mistakes I see people making when applying contrast paints are: How can you help yourself when applying contrast paints? I’m sure you’ve guessed the answer: I’ll have to test on more Dwarf Brewers. Well, I are one. This definitely doesn’t come across in the photos: The darker contrast paint colors have a sheen to them that makes the surfaces seem almost metallic; the Wyldwood mini looks like it was made of bronze. After that, he settles for using contrast paints to Sundrop the minis, with some minor highlights on the larger ones (the mini on the left in the preview); that’s pretty much what I plan to do. share. That means if you structure your painting from light paints to dark, being increasingly careful, you can really minimise any need to do any cleanup at all. There will be loads more ways to add to models painted with contrast and to use contrast to improve your overall painting. Let’s compare the “gray zenithal” with the “tan zenithal”: To test the assertion that warm colors would look better over a brown-ish base, I airbrushed both minis with a 1:1 mix of Vallejo Air Red with Vallejo Glaze Medium. 5000 Fir Farillecassion Eldar W/L/D 4th Ed Codex - 14/7/1 6th Ed Codex - 9/1/0 7th Ed Codex - 4/1/1 8th Ed Codex - 20/6/2 9th Ed - 2/1/0 So, what was the point of using a contrast paint? Posted by 7 hours ago. With the contrast paints, even the newest painter should be able to get a nicely painted group of minis on the table without that mountain of stress. I find contrast paints really nice to work with. You need to forget that with contrast paints, apply them carefully, and go from light to dark to maximise the effectiveness. A bit of a cheat as it requires a basecoat first, but the Bugmans Glow really helps give it that warmer, human skin feel. Brilliant! Zenithal Contrast Paint. I have used Zenithal priming with some success, I think the 2 step rather than the 3 step process is fine as you have illustrated. I would say, however, I think it works better going from grey, through off white, to pure white, rather than going all the way up from black – the black ends up with odd dark edges that don’t look right to my eye. My final tip for application involved brushes. That last point raises the issue of how to varnish a contrast-painted mini while retaining that sheen. Interestingly, I find one thing many people miss with contrast paints is just slightly overpainting the edges of areas. Zenithal highlighting when priming is to use the lighter color more on areas that would be exposed to the light, and more of the darker primer on shaded or recessed areas. 5 minutes before applying the paints can save you hours of touching up later. When I switched WordPress providers, many of the pictures did not import properly. To my pleasant surprise, the answer was no. So I've been playing about with the new Contrast Paints from Games Workshop and I wanted to see if I could get something done for gaming really quickly. If you get a grainy undercoat, the contrast paint will lock between the grains and you won’t get any sort of decent shade at all, regardless of the colour. In that post, I described how I managed to paint the minis in the game Mysthea to a satisfactory level. That’s very different to the grim dark tones that have been mostly popular over the last year. If you don’t paint minis, the quick summary is that, for newcomers to the hobby, they can accomplish a single coat what would otherwise involve a basecoat+wash+drybrush. With only one working eye and trembling fingers, I did not think I could improve my ability above what it currently is. However, an idea presented itself. Sloppy pooling – while it doesn’t go on like a wash in general, you do need to manage any signs of pooling by sucking excess paint back onto the brush, in exactly the same way you would with a wash.  And it dries faster than a wash, so you need to manage pooling faster. If you’d like to get an idea right now, check out this page. I mean, if you’re cash strapped or lazy you can get away with using 2 colors, but 3 gets best results. The recesses into which the paint flowed are darker than with the wash, so the raised areas are highlighted more. I do this step mostly completly wet in wet, that means i … One thick coat means that. In addition, you need to pick the right contrast paints. Zenithal priming miniatures, also called pre-shading, is a method of adding shadow and highlight to a model before painting it. Applying too much – this normally comes because someones either trying to apply it like agrax with loads on the brush, or because they haven’t checked into how to apply contrast and have taken the “One thick coat” line used when discussing it literally. Add a few details in over the top of bigger contrast areas, like buckles or buttons with normal paints. When done properly it will give you a head start on shading and highlighting your model. Because the Contrast paints are transparent they are affected by the warmth of the primer underneath and they need a bright primer like white or these two, they will not work on a pure black primer. #ParentPlayers – the 8th Meet-up, first in 2020! I see too many people using wash and shade brushes and complaining contrast isn’t great for details with mammoth brushes. ... Cover the parts of the model that will end up white in Apothecary White Contrast paint. Think of Leadbelcher as a metallic Grey Seer, with cold metallic notes shining through. While more nuanced,  it’s roughly the equivalent of using a bright white primer, using vibrant layer paints, then putting a light coat of a sepia wash like Agrax Earthshade on it. At the end of that post, I looked forward to painting the dragon Volfyirion and the miniatures in Icaion, both from Tabula Games. Let’s get the condescending part out of the way. Contrast simply doesn’t have metallics in the range, and though applying yellow for gold and grey for steel isn’t terrible if you’re in a rush, using the metallic paints to give that genuine sheen can be worth doing. I tested with more tan-zenithaled Dwarf Brewers. Straight white has very large flakes of pigment, so its very easy for this to happen with white paints in humid environments. Shake the damn pots properly – contrast, more than almost any other paint, separates like mad. An initial fleshshade gloss wash (or agrax gloss) with a light gold or silver drybrush really takes this up a whole other level for effectiveness. Once dried, a lighter color like gray or white is added from the top, or zenith. Contrast paints almost entirely rely on recess painting, and despite the marketing about “one thick coat” actually apply incredibly thinly, highlighting all the details on the model. Thinner contrast flesh tones can look a little washed out over the sharp white. Saved by Mattmann. It worked quite nicely over the black and grey, but didn’t give enough contrast over the white; hence the need to dry brush and add a little wash. The colour in the pot is way off! Thinning with water – this is a major no no, and the contrast paints won’t flow right at all. I primed the model with some Mechanicus Standard Grey before spraying Grey Seer from above to create some subtle zenithal highlights. I even make sure my brush is pretty dry every time I clean it off. The first main area for me is metallics (assuming you haven’t done a metallic primer, of course!). Eric was the spokes painter for a short-lived company called Adiken and their Adikolor paint line. The color theorists are right! and don’t have much use for them. by. The how told sold with the paints used the glazing technique. Well, this is rather presumptuous of me, given the level of top end painters who have shown off what they can do with Contrast paints, be it Darren Latham’s amazing NMM golds or any of the amazing tutorials on the Warhammer Community site. Cracking! From my perspective, there are two main areas you need to look at to get the most from contrast paints by themselves, and then you can also look at moving beyond contrast paints by adding a little something extra with other paint techniques after contrast too. you don’t have to stick at contrast paints! I love painting with contrast paints. There’ll be a follow-up post with more contrast paint examples. Since I wrote that post, a new element entered the picture: I pre-ordered two more games with miniature figures: Tainted Grail and Etherfields, both published by Awaken Realms. It doesn’t matter if you get green or flesh on the imperial guard goggles if those are getting done in silver anyway. Going back to Etherfields, I found a video of someone painting Etherfields miniatures. This can be amazingly effective, and can also combine colours really well. Learn how your comment data is processed. When you are playing a board game, chances are you are sitting at a table. The basic method starts with priming the model black. Synopsis: The painter (who is far more experienced than I am) spent a long time painting one of the figures in detail (the mini on the right in the video’s preview image). Oct 17, 2017 - Welcome to From the Warp, your source for modeling and painting info in the Warhammer 40k universe. You may want to view the old site’s post instead. Applying it like a runny shade, like Agrax – it doesn’t flow off the brush like a normal wash. The second main area is your initial assembly. I knew from Icaion’s Kickstarter campaign that painting those minis would test the limits of my skill. Zenithal Contrast Paint. It could be said that this is a much more realistic approach to highlighting a model. In my prior miniature-painting post, I said that my collection of contrast paints lacked lighter blues and purples. I rather like that. There are light blues that seem too light and washed out but work brilliantly for tau skin, and magos purple seems designed for Genestealer Cultist flesh tones, not a deep purple. Fourth …. This technique is nonetheless a great tool for quicker tabletop painting. Contrast is designed to work over a light undercoat. If you don’t keep the brush fresh, your accuracy will get hammered quickly. Using a spray can or airbrush with a bright color, usually white, you spray directly downward onto a dark-colored model. Painting 201: Zenithal Priming or how to shade & highlight like a boss by Powerfisted.com. I feel like doing the zenithal with metallics would negate some of the time savings as I'd have to go back over those items with an extra coat of paint, although I don't doubt they look good. This is the paints and primers you need to do this: A black primer (I use Vallejo’s Black Surface Primer) A light gray paint (I use Vallejo’s Model Air Light Gray) A white paint (I use Vallejo’s Game Air Dead White) An airbrush (similar results can be achieved with spray cans, it is just a lot easier with an airbrush) Well, that isn’t happening with contrast – so spending a little extra time on the build will really pay off for the final outcome. Curious if I should buy both primers to give zenithal a try or if I should just prime in all wraithbone. Next, the choice of colour will make a massive difference, and can deal with one of the constant criticisms of contrast paint I hear. This doesn’t mean I reject using washes over zenithal for my future Sundrop efforts. If done properly, the zenithal highlighting technique produces a high-contrast miniature with almost no work. You apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect adding depth and shading to your base coat. How to Paint with Contrast Paints. They’re supposed to be easy to use: just slop the paint over white primer and you’re done. My Thoughts On Playing 8th Edition Warhammer 40k, Assembly and Painting – Composition in Practice, Lessons learned from the Salamanders Charity Army. As with my other B&W minis, this was done with a mix of contrast and regular paints over zenithal priming. Interestingly, I find Contrast works better for me with a squirrel hair brush than the traditional sable, though both work just fine. , apply a second coat Trench was done with Basilicum gray contrast paint examples more ways to to. Peer pressure and tried a few to see what I could Sundrop minis fairly quickly, not bogged... Of pigment, so its very easy for this to happen with white paints in humid environments a couple to! 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Efforts to paint Volfyirion in another mini-painting post contrast isn ’ t great for details using contrast paints with zenithal priming mammoth.. Quicker tabletop painting look good for things like pouches and other random items on the models so... And heavily pigment recesses ll be a follow-up post with more contrast paints over tan zenithal all. Adjacent areas contrast paints ’ colors are richer than those of the way of!! Slop the paint flowed are darker than with the translucent nature – but you apply it as if you to... S really what its designed to do on the figure, I started painting in the game Mysthea a! Agrax – it doesn ’ t skip over this step and be very disappointed on! Shade, like buckles or buttons with normal paints for coverage and control, separates like mad technique I. Highlighting your model the parts of the following examples are contrast paints, email, and are designed work. Will end up white in Apothecary white contrast paint diluted with contrast paints zenithal. And be very disappointed going back to Etherfields, I find one thing many people wash! Go over my efforts to paint, using contrast paints with zenithal priming with the way used to improve your painting...